We have to buy a window unit for our house. We have Central AC but it’s not keeping up and we can’t afford to upsize it right now. So until then I’m researching which window units to buy. Any advice or anything to cut through all the marketing spam and AI copy that I have to wade thru?
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get one rated for the room size.
I have one for an attic room that gets around 100°F without one. it’s about 100sqft and I’m running a 9000BTU system. with the unit it stays around 71-74°.
stay away from “Mr cool”. they’ve had lots of defects from factory.
I would get something local, probably Walmart. reason for that, if you have any problems you can just take it back.
DO NOT BUY ONE THAT SITS IN YOUR ROOM. The ones that sit in the window are better because the heat is already outside instead of having to go through a tube.
I was in the same situation as you at my last house. Central AC was added to a 100 year old house but it was never enough. I got new windows put in, and that helped, but it still got to hot in the summer.
We got this U Shaped Midea window unit and that did the trick: https://www.midea.com/us/store/cooling-and-heating/window-air-conditioners/u-shaped-air-conditioner-ultra-quiet.MAW08U1QWT
It’s better than a standard window unit because you can close the window nearly all the way, unlike standard window units that rely on those crappy plastic accordion things.
Best of luck.
I have 3 of these and love them. Unfortunately there is a recall on them for mold (never had a problem with mold in my units) and I think because if it, they’re really hard to find now. Amazon has pulled them from sales.
All I can really say is to avoid the floor models, since they put the hot part of the conditioner inside your home, thus have to work a lot harder
See Technology Connections (Piped) for an informational video
My experience with these units is that they’re horribly unreliable too. I worked in an industry where we’d use these for temporary or emergency cooling for server rooms and I don’t know if I ever saw a model last more than a year. A lot of window units are pretty flaky too, unfortunately, but you’ll probably at least get 2-3 years out of one.
Well most of the world lives in apartments where only floor* units are an option so they do exactly what they should. Ofc it’s less efficient if the hose is uninsulated. But that’s fixed with 20bucks and some tape
Even renting a house it’s in my lease I can’t use a window unit. Which sucks because our swamp cooler outputs into the living room in a way that makes it very difficult to get its air into the second bedroom.
What’s their reasoning on no window units?
I’ve been told this everywhere I’ve rented with different reasons ranging from it’ll put undue stress on the sill, liability (non first floor apartment would’ve been bad if it fell out), and the current ones thought was they tend to leak water which can damage the pain and then damage the sill.
Always depends where one lives, here in my case nobody complains about any noise so I just say fuck it we ball. friend of mine too has it even tho they don’t want it, but nobody complains so we keep it
Be aware that most window A/C units are power hogs. Expect to see a significant rise in your power bill. It might be cheaper to have your home A/C unit serviced instead. Could it be low on freon? Would it benefit from having the coils cleaned?
I know it’s a considerable cost increase and installation, but still way cheaper than upgrading your central A/C, and way more efficient, quiet, elegant than a window unit: add a mini-split to the room. I added a Mitsubishi to our hot office with tons of electronics and it’s one of the best home investments I made.
What size is your central AC (usually measured in “tons”) and what’s the total area of the space you’re trying to condition? Single story or multiple stories?
What’s your budget? There are a lot of options to narrow down. I have an amazing unit that was around 400 bucks but you can find reliable ones a quarter of that price, or 4x.
We have one in an upstairs bedroom from midea, the window slides right between the front and back of the unit and it’s excellent. Our power consumption didn’t increase too terribly much and it’s actually decently quiet.
Not gonna put the model here but just look for U shaped window units. It has little legs that go outside.
Don’t get the inside standing units, they’re massive, loud, power hungry, and most of them are less effective than even the cheap window units.
The U shaped units manufactured by midea were all recalled and are not currently available for sale.
You might want to look up the recall and get the repair kit. They were recalled for excessive mold build up.
It seems the recall for the mold was essentially forgetting to put a drain for excessesive condensate. I havnt gotten a response yet. Did you get a response from them? Sucks that unit is awesome. And quiet. I thought it was funny they didn’t leave condensate tap to run a drain. I kinda assumed they figured out how to evaporate it in away like a refrigerator. They are made really well otherwise and have great user controls. Even the mounting bracket are next level.
I don’t have one of that type, so I haven’t contacted them. I was thinking about getting a unit like that, but then found out why they weren’t in stock anywhere.
I think the lack of drain was intentional so that the water wiuld splash up on the condenser coil. An AC unit generates a lot more water than a refrigerator though, so I think any design with a condensate basin below the condenser coil will have mold problems. The other issue is they didn’t make the unit very serviceable, so opening it up to clean out mold sounds like a huge hassle. Draining the water away will mean the units won’t be as efficient as originally designed, but mold can be a major health hazard.
Yes of course a fridge does not condensate nearly as much as a room A/C coil. Curious where you found information that says they purposefully designed it to not drain off. And how splashing water onto a coil would make it more efficient? Also, though I havnt done any deep search, from experience most window units are a hassle to access the coil for deep cleaning other than from through the filter. The midea unit is actually decent in accessing the entire face of the coil and fins can be cleaned by removing filter and with no tools opening up the entire face of the indoor unit (this would basically only be covered in dust) much better than older units I’ve tried to work on.
I don’t have information specific to midea, so there is some speculation, but I do have a ge unit which does outright say that the water condensate is slung across the condenser coil to boost efficiency. And yes, my ge unit got really nasty and I ended up drilling a hole in the base of the condensate pan to drain all the water.
https://products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-support-search-content?contentId=16758
Heat pump efficiency is limited by the temperature delta across the compressor. The larger the temperature delta, the less efficient a heat pump is. Evaporating water off the condenser coil drops the refrigerant temperature compared to air only and gives a small boost to efficiency. I don’t think it’s a big difference, but it’s enough to be worthwhile doing if you can “get it for free.” Unfortunately, a constantly cool and wet pool is a great breeding ground for mold and pathogens that you don’t want airborne.
As for cleaning ease, I based that off of comments (on reddit I think), recommending people push midea to pay for a technician to perform the fix because taking it apart for a thorough cleaning is a hassle. So I have no firsthand experience there and I’ll defer to your judgement.
Don’t do it at this time of year.
Check the minimum operating temperature. Most ACs will start throwing hot air if the outside temp drops to 18c/64F. Not a problem if it’s going to stay warm overnight but towards the end of summer the night temps can dip fairly low.
Been a while since I had to buy one so might no longer be accurate, but an inverter-type window A/C will be more energy efficient than the regular one.
Not what you asked, but you might check that:
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The central AC doesn’t need to be recharged. If it has leaked coolant and is low, it will drop in effectiveness.
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Or, even more simply, that the air filters don’t need to be replaced.
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You can’t improve insulation. Doing so is a one-off cost, as opposed to the ongoing cost of throwing more air conditioning muscle at the problem. Weatherstrip leaks, replace any single-pane windows with double-pane, etc.
On top of that, some rooms don’t have proper cold air return to the furnace, meaning those rooms don’t get proper air circulation and can be the reason for a room being warm. I’m experiencing this right now. One bedroom has a cold air return on the other side of the wall, but nothing in the room itself, and it’s the hottest room in the house. I gotta cut an entry to that cold air return duct.
Can’t improve insulation? Did you mean can? If so, yes, that’s on the to do list. We need better windows too.
Yes, those are good tips thanks.
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They’re mostly all made in one or two factories in China. Midea and another one.
When it comes time to replace the AC, consider getting one that’s reversible and runs as a heat pump. You don’t need to use it, but it shouldn’t cost much more and gives you flexibility.
Make sure you buy one with enough cooling power to cool the room it’s in. If it’s a small bedroom you’ll want 5,000-8,000 BTU and if it’s a larger area like a living room you’ll probably want 12,000-14,000 BTU.
I just put a 12,000 BTU unit in my living room because it’s open to the kitchen and it’s about 550ft².
A good rule of thumb is 20 BTU per Ft², so my 550ft² living room/kitchen area would require at least 11,000 BTU.
