Loose yolks. Heh

I wondered too. It was explained here: https://lemmy.world/post/28040267

Sibiu Romania sees what you’re talking about.

Ah, got it. That plan should be great. You can segment your own wired+WiFi network with that hardware, and even do Wireguard from the hAP ax2 to get whole-network egress via an outside VPN service at a good data rate, if you want.

The other devices you might consider as the router are the GL-iNet Slate series. They will be slower as a VPN router, but they’re pretty small and light. They come with a skinned OpenWRT, but in most cases you can install a build of the unmodified OS if you want.

Sure. That plan would work. You might want to be sure that this is permitted at your university.

Universities often have strict rules about what should connect to their networks.

That isn’t what I would choose for your situation. CRS3xx switches are fast at switching (layer 1 & 2), but not as a NAT router, which you probably need.

Better to pick something from the Mikrotik Ethernet Routers range, assuming you don’t want your personal LAN to have WiFi. The L009 or basic RB5009 are both good options in the same price range. Choosing depends on your upstream connection speed. Both are fanless.

Or pick a Home/Office Wireless device if you are permitted to have your own WiFi access point. The hAP ax2 is small, affordable and performs well at 1Gbps. If your upstream connection is 1Gpbs this is probably what I would choose even if you don’t want WiFi as long as this is enough ports. Just turn off its WiFi radios to use it wired-only. If you have a 2.5Gbps upstream port then hAP ax3 is a better choice.

All the Mikrotik choices will require some learning if you want anything beyond a basic router configuration. But once you get it like you want it they are very solid and reliable.

OpenWRT and OPNSense are easier to jump into without a lot of effort, so if you don’t want a networking hobby I would use one of them. Pick up pre installed device if you want it easy. Or get a mini PC with a few network ports and install the OS yourself to get more power for the money.

How about creating your own LAN within the untrusted network?

Something like an inexpensive OpenWRT router would do fine. Connect all your devices and the server to the router. They are now on a trusted network. Set up Wireguard on the OpenWRT router to connect to Proton so that your outbound traffic from all your devices is secured.

Team hankie! I like to think of mine as the towel recommended by Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy. It was just oversight that I didn’t have mine in my recent share.

I start every day with oysters and champagne just to make that sadsack spin in his grave. Well, that and to awaken the sexual appetite.

But that’s the fun!

Agent of chaos, eh? Or are you sentient mint building your terrestrial army?

I’m not a potatologist, but it seems like it should be fine to let it grow in there for a couple more weeks. It’s happy there, and that’s the main thing.

Then transplant it to a big bin/pot/raised bed or the ground outside. If it’s root bound just cut down on the sides of the root tangle and detangle them a bit before planting. Put a big clear plastic tub/tote over it at night if it will be frosty.

It will be similar but not the same. Tvarog & quark are more acidic. So it will have a tartness you may or may not like. With cottage cheese there is more rennet for curdling, the curd is cut like with cheese production, and the curd is heated and washed, producing a more firm and less sour curd. Then cream is added.

So try it and see what you think. If it is too sour you could try and find a very soft fresh cheese it might be closer to the curd you are familiar with and add cream to that.

In the end though, cottage cheese is an industrial product, with all kinds of bioengineering involved (like special bacteria strains that produce diacetyl for a buttery flavor). So any hacks will be unlikely to duplicate the flavor and texture exactly. It’s probably worth learning to love the local stuff.

Yes indeed. Everyone arriving goes through immigration, collects bags, clears customs; and only then may proceed to the exit, or recheck bags and go back through security to catch a connecting flight.

The only exception is if you originated at a pre-clearance airport and did the immigration stuff before departure. But that means you still need a visa. And it’s only at a handful of airports in Canada, Ireland, UAE and the Caribbean.

In the US, if you land, you must pass through immigration.

~~At least I’m not aware of any airports where there is an international terminal like you find elsewhere in the world. Ours require entry to the country even if you are connecting to another international flight. ~~

Edit: yep, none have this.

If you have trouble with the soaking, black beans do very well with a “quick soak”.

1. Cover them with water about twice the depth of the beans. Add about 1 teaspoon (~5 ml or 5-7 g) salt.

2. Bring to a boil and keep it boiling for 2 minutes. Then cover and turn off the burner/hob. Let soak for 1-2 hours.

3. Add any extra seasonings now (but nothing acidic). Then bring back to a boil and then simmer until soft. Adjust seasoning and you’re done.

They should take much less time than cooking from dry. How long will depend on the beans. Older beans can take much longer, but most should be soft in 1 hour or so.

Not when you change residency, but if you relinquish your citizenship: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Expatriation_tax#United_States or your residency has been revoked.

So if you remain a US citizen you owe normal annual tax (minus a credit for foreign taxes paid).

It’s significantly immediate-er with induction - particularly going from cool to hot. Boil water in 2 minutes and handles don’t get hot in the process. And since nothing is heating except the metal of the base of the pan there is no residual heat from the cooktop parts or the sides of the pan when you turn it off. The temperature drops much faster.

I went back to gas after 5 years cooking on induction and miss it a lot. Cooking something like pasta that requires boiling a sizeable quantity of water takes 2x or 3x longer on gas, even with a very powerful burner.

Cca != CCA

The Cca standard relates to the flammability and toxicity of the materials used to jacket the cable. You can read about it here: https://cabling.crxconec.com/en/crx-blog/CRX-Blog-02.html

CCA stands for Copper Clad Aluminum. The actual conductors (each wire) is made from aluminum that has been given a thin coating of copper. This is what you want to avoid since it can be less durable and likely to have more voltage drop for PoE. It’s unrelated to the Cca standard.

So assuming you are running this wire for a fixed installation, you should be looking for Cca + solid copper (not stranded). The one you linked to looks good.

Get shielding if it will be run near strong interference sources, and only if the shielding will be grounded.

Likewise for Portugal. Its highest point is Pico, in the Azores archipelago.